Wednesday, September 7, 2011

tom parker bowles and::This is one trend that has been going on for thousands of years, as horticulturists ceaselessly crosspollinated different varieties of plant to create ever more ornate, exotic and finetasting crops-tom parker bowles and

tom parker bowles and::This is one trend that has been going on for thousands of years, as horticulturists ceaselessly crosspollinated different varieties of plant to create ever more ornate, exotic and finetasting crops.
Orange as an oompa loompa, of course, and always has been.
Because the afghans of the 7th century would have been perplexed.
Their version, and the one from which all ours are descended, was a rather regal purple.
Even when they reached europe, via the moors, some time in the 14th century, carrots were either purple or pale yellow.
Aptly enough, it was the dutch who created the orange carrot, which quickly became the norm.
And golden raspberries have been around for pretty much the same time as the red ones.
As food writer matthew fort points out.
Novelty value is all well and good, but the thrill quickly wears off.
Of your lunch to be some ghastly conversation piece, or rather something to relish and enjoy?
I kept this in mind when preparing lunch.
My recipes were simple, so the technicoloured produce had nothing to hide behind, no flattering sauces or overpowering spice.
It had sweetness, and real vibrancy too.
More male model than role model.
Far superior were the yellow vine tomatoes from selfridges, gently scented and throbbing with flavour.
The end result was as pretty as a picture.
And it certainly got the palate going.
Next up was the purple cauliflower, an admittedly striking sight.
It stained the cooking water indigo, and actually turned blue after a few minutes in the pan.
The yellow version had more to it, although if you closed your eyes you could be eating sweetcorn.
Quite strange but not altogether unpleasant.
This was an intriguing product, sweet, like a raisin, and sticky too.
The end result, when anointed with olive oil and garlic, was a trifle unsettling, like something gleaned from the pages of roald dahl.
Still, my young daughter was sufficiently fascinated by all these pastelshaded cauliflowers to give them a try, without even moaning.
If all else fails, they have a future as comedy veg for the children.
Then pudding, a fool made with the golden raspberries and crushed gingernuts for crunch.
They tasted like a more mellow version of their red brethren, with a soft, subtle sweetness.
They are well worth seeking out.
But the big question remains.
The ingredients might have looked suitably pretty, but were they any better than their drably attired cousins?
Remember that the cauliflowers were bred for colour over taste.
They were just about ok, but once the initial excitement has worn off they just feel, well, pointless.
The black garlic was more interesting, a sort of alternative to, rather than substitute for, the fresh bulbs.
And the raspberries, along with the kiwi and nectarine, were very good indeed.
Appearance is important, and a good part of eating is done with the eyes.
More fundamental still, however, is what happens in your mouth.

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